![]() At the top of the wall, from left to right, diagonally slide the pry bar (hook end towards you) behind the cut plaster panel and leave the very end of the pry bar(flat end) sticking out at the lower bottom left. Step 7) On the ladder, using the pry bar, at the top of the wall, you will pry off your first single square section of wall by using the following technique. You should now have a semi-straight vertical cut line from ceiling to floor. Stop cutting when you're about 2" from the floor. Stop, evaluate the situation (using a flashlight), and reposition and continue to cut just the slats and plaster. If the saw blade pops out or is hard to move, chances are you're cutting into a wall stud. You can also steer the saw close to the parallel wall stud for a closer cut. Keep your cut line as straight up-and-down as possible. gently add downward pressure to the saw, don't force the saw, let the saw do the work. Step 6) Place the blade of the reciprocating saw half way in the 1/2" hole you drilled earlier and begin sawing downward. Only drill a hole in the section your are currently working on. At the top of the ceiling, using the drill and the 1/2" bit, drill a hole on the right end of the 4" stud marking. Step 5) Start at the left hand side of the wall. Position the 96 gallon trash can by the ladder and have your partner waiting for you to hand them square slat and plaster section to put into the garbage can. You do not want ancient dust creeping in your mask! A hat is optional if you don't want dust in your hair (ladies). Make sure your respirator is tight enough not to let air in and the nose bridge is snug on the bridge of your nose. Step 4) Put on you respirator, goggles and gloves. I tape all joining plastic sheet seems from ceiling to floor and allow a slit for me to walk out during breaks. I like to "booth off" the room with plastic by taping 10 X 12 sheets from the ceiling to the floor using blue painters tape as it will not rip your drywall paint\paper when you remove the tape. Step 3) Cover the floor of the room where you're working with the 10 X 12 plastic. You will not cut below or within 5" of the top of this line. Use the marker to draw a horizontal line between outlets. If you have multiple plugin outlets on a single wall chances are the wiring will be horizontally ran inside the wall to join the outlets. Make note of all electrical switches and outlets. Have your partner mark where the stud finder began beeping and where it stopped. Make your stud marks horizontal and 4" wide. Using the ladder, stud finder, and the black marker, start about 5" down from the wall\ceiling crease and locate and mark all the wall studs on the wall you plan to strip plaster slats from. You do not want to electrocute yourself! If other rooms have power receptacles on a separate fuse you can run an extension chord into the work room to power a flood lamp. Step 1) Turn off the power in the room that contains the wall you plan on stripping. ![]() A partner to help (needs items 1, 2, & 3). Large 96 gallon square trash bin with wheels or durable plastic storage container with wheels (preferably).ġ4. Reciprocating Saw (any reliable brand will do) with extension chord.ġ1. ![]() 10 X 12 thin plastic drop sheets (Wal Mart).Ĩ. I recommend a $19 dual filter mask from Wal Mart.ģ. The fact is, this is a messy job and "bashing walls" is out of the question if you want to minimize the spread of dust and cleanup time. I've removed many slat and plaster walls and this is the most efficient\minimal mess technique I have discovered. You can also position a plastic mortar box under where your working to catch most of the plaster for easier cleanup. I've tried every method of plaster removal (sawing, smashing etc.) and I find the dead-blow/wonder bar method the most pleasant. I don't even think it's fit for re-plastering because the lath is too dried out, though I've never actually tried it. You'll have a cool-looking wall of lath in no time! I'm not sure why you'd want it - it's not all that flat and of course you can see right through it. The nice thing about knocking down the plaster separately is you have a pile of pure plaster rock, which is easy to handle with a flat shovel (compared to having miscellaneous lengths of lath mixed in). Of course as you break it, the plaster "keys" will fall into the wall cavity, but most of the plaster will be on the floor. After you have a vertical furrow, start going horizontally along the lath with a flat bar - the plaster should just peel away once you get between it and the lath. That's the hard part, getting it started. You'll run into lath after a couple of blows, then just continue up and down the wall, just deep enough to expose the lath, leaving a furrow of exposed lath. I use a "dead blow" hammer (less bounce than a steel hammer and easier on the wrists) to whack the hooked end of a wonderbar at a 45 degree angle to get started.
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